Bike Failure #3: Broken Rim. I'm definitely too fat
Sailing the South Atlantic Ocean
Once I reached Ushuaia, the end of the world in the Land of Fire, I began looking for a sailboat to cross the Atlantic Ocean to South Africa. I luckily found one, but they unluckily were completely full. I then even more luckily met Alain, the famous French sailor of the Kotick sailboat. He, his wife, and a friend were to sail back to their home in Uruguay after a season of charter trips to Antarctica. They had space on board and I joined them for a 10 day, 1500 mile voyage up the South Atlantic Ocean to Uruguay. Along the way I learned to sail from the best in the business and saw life in the other world of the ocean.
Ushuaia, Argentina 12/3/2017 to Montevideo, Uruguay 11/4/2017
Waiting to Sail
Before leaving to sail up the South Atlantic Ocean, I hung out with Australians Cath and Greg of Icebird Expeditions. For a week we prepared their sailboat for winter storage, sharing stories and laughs from their neck of the woods and mine while I learned to say yeah mate instead of yessir.
The Road to the End of the World
It has been a couple months and more than 4000 kilometers since I left Santiago, Chile after the holidays. Since then I biked through blackberry lined wine and fruit country, the famous Carretera Austral, wet and windy Patagonia country, and recently Tierra Del Fuego or Earth of Fire. The road south ends here in Ushuaia, Argentina, the most southern town in the world at almost 55 degrees latitude south. This marks the end of a long fun journey south, and it is now time to find my way to a new continent, Africa.
Chillan, Chile 12/1/2017 (dd/mm/yy) to Ushuaia, Argentina 12/3/2017
The Carretera Austral in Chile
Blackberry bushes lined a main highway heading down central Chile. This resulted in me eating unhealthy quantities of blackberries. I found them particularly tasty with milk from powder and sugar.Locals in Patagonia protesting the construction of hydroelectric damsTypical home design in southern ChileLa Confluencia, the junction of Rio Baker and Rio Neff
I wondered if this dog would run after me for 100km, but he stopped after 30kmI went rafting down this river, the Futaleufu, which is one of the best in the world for kayaking and raftingA few windmills to help power the city of Coyhaique, Chile
My best friend in Santiago got me a fishing pole for Christmas, and I put it to good use on the lakes and rivers of the carretera austral. Here a robalo, or chilean sea bass, was the catch for dinner.
Surviving a Desert Storm
Shout out to Panaderia La Union (in Tolhuin, Argentina, just north of Ushuaia) for the midnight pastry binge!Paso Roballos is one of the less commonly used border crossings between Chile and Argentina
When biking out in Argentinian pampa, with strong winds and no protection whatsoever, my tent is no longer an option and so I sleep behind my saddlebagsPuerto Natales, ChileA monument to the Patagonian winds
I think this is the best possible representation of Tierra Del Fuego, a big lonely Estancia (ranch) in the southernmost inhabited part of the worldSunrise in Punta Arenas, ChileOne of the stranger airplane landing strips I have seen, tucked up in the Andes mountainsDali cloud formations entering Argentinian pampa countryTravelers from around the world called this abandoned house in the middle of nowhere home as they make their way in ArgentinaPuerto Natales, ChileThere are many of these Puesto de Arreos, or small overnight shelters for sheep and cattle herders in southern Patagonia. I stayed in one of them one evening and enjoyed the simple wooden bunk bed and wood burning furnace to pass the frigid Patagonian evening.
Crossing Borders into the New Year
In the last couple months I left Bolivia, entered Chile, road down northern Argentina, and then crossed back into Chile. In doing so I descended out of the Andes, entered the summer season, and reintroduced excessive portions of fresh fruit into my diet for the first time since Ecuador. After studying in Chile's capital a few years ago, I had several friends and host families to catch up with when I biked into Santiago. A festive couple weeks there made me fall in love with Chile again, and my percentage of Chilean identity increased a few points. I wanted to stay longer in Santiago but the road and colder temperatures in the south called me, and so I continue to the end of the world. Uyuni, Bolivia 11/19 to Chillan, Chile 1/12/2017
Ruta 40 in Argentina
Argentinians make tons of roadside memorials for Gaucho Gil, the popular folk saint who cured the son of his murderer. In the middle of deserts they give him tons of bottles of water, which makes thirsty bikers like me want to take them when I run out of h2O. Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in the Americas and the tallest outside of the Himalayans. I plan to return one day to climb it.
Argentinian cartoons, the top says "singing beautifully" and the bottom "A little rest"
Eduardo Avaroa and Flamencos National Parks
Surrealism in Bolivia
Biking out of Peru and into Bolivia, little seemed to change culturally. Many of the people come from the same ancestors, the Inca, only separated by border lines. But one can't help but feel sorry for a country like Bolivia whose 5 neighbors have all moved those border lines and taken some of Bolivia's land over the centuries. Still Bolivians are warm up at these high altitudes of altiplano (high altitude flat terrain). The big open spaces, especially in the magical salt flats, make for an interesting ambience. Other than that, after recent developments in the United States I am considering extending my trip around the world until January 2021. Arequipa, Peru to Uyuni, Bolivia 10/16 to 11/18
This video shows a tornado that Bolivians were able to reroute using whispers and hand movements, the Dali like Salt Flats, and a routine drug check.
Uyuni Salt Flat Adventures: Surviving a Zombie Gummy Bear Attack
Out of nowhere there was a zombie gummy bear attack, but I managed to get away
Then a dinosaur started chasing me
I started having bike problems and I got caught in a wheel
I got lost looking for my bike
And when I finally found it I tried pulling it…
And pushing it until I finally got out of the salt flat
Behind the scenes
Coast to Mountains to Jungle, A Peru Journey with my Sister
After biking out of the mountains, I made my way toward the southern coast of Peru to make up some distance. Then it was back to Lima to meet my sister for a 10 day journey that included an electronic concert, a trip to energetic Machu Picchu, and a tour through the thick Amazon jungle. We covered all three of Peru's terrains in a short time, and finished with a smile.
Huancavelica, Peru to Arequipa, Peru 9/16 to 10/16
Video of the Amazon Jungle, Machu Picchu, and an Ultra Concert in Lima, Peru